| For a person as curious as me, I am always out | | | | between 1829 and 1832 and was named after |
| on some sort of discovery. No wonder travel | | | | William Osgoode, the first Chief Justice of Upper |
| writing appeals so much to me because it gives | | | | Canada. Further expansions happened in the |
| me the opportunity to explore interesting new | | | | second half of the 19th century. The cast iron |
| places all the time. But of course my inquisitive | | | | gates surrounding the property feature so-called |
| mind never rests, so when I am not traveling out | | | | "cow gates" which were intended to keep out |
| of town, I venture out locally right here in my | | | | grazing cows which were still a frequent sight in |
| chosen home town of Toronto to investigate the | | | | the young City of Toronto. |
| nooks and crannies of my city. | | | | Just southwest of Osgoode Hall is the Four |
| Over the last few years I have had an | | | | Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts, a |
| opportunity to explore many different cities in | | | | 2000+ seat theatre that opened in June of 2006. |
| many different ways, by walking, through driving | | | | We turned right and headed north on University |
| tours, sightseeing buses, architectural tours, even | | | | Avenue, a six-lane divided principal arterial road |
| boat tours or by taking public transit; but one of | | | | and Toronto's widest avenue. One of the main |
| my very favourite ways is to discover a city by | | | | landmarks on University Avenue, the |
| bicycle. With a bike you can get almost anywhere, | | | | fifteen-storey Canada Life Building, built in Beaux |
| you cover more ground than by walking, but you | | | | Arts style, was completed in 1929 and was one |
| are still able to stop at any time and admire a | | | | of the tallest buildings in Toronto at the time. This |
| particular detail up close. In addition, it helps you | | | | building is famous for its weather beacon which |
| burn a few calories, a consideration that is | | | | has been announcing the weather in the city since |
| becoming ever more important as my waistline | | | | 1951. Steady green indicates fair weather, red |
| expands. | | | | means rain, white means snow, and lights moving |
| So I had already done bicycle tours in Montreal | | | | up or down indicate a temperature change. Jordan |
| and Vancouver, and I was wondering if there was | | | | also pointed out the American Consulate which is |
| a company in Toronto that offered organized | | | | occasionally a location of protests when various |
| bicycle tours. On the website of my good friend | | | | groups voice their opinions against US policy. |
| Bruce Bell, a renowned Toronto historian and tour | | | | Further north, University Avenue is dominated by |
| guide, I finally found a link to a company called | | | | a series of hospitals. The street then splits into |
| "Sights on Bikes". That sounded interesting, so I | | | | the eastern and western half of Queen's Park |
| started investigating their website and contacted | | | | Circle, whose centre is dominated by Queen's |
| one of the co-owners, Jordan Feilders, to tell me | | | | Park, another imposing Richardsonian Romanesque |
| more about his company. He suggested that I | | | | Revival structure and the seat of the Ontario |
| come out to Sights on Bikes Deluxe City Tour to | | | | legislature. |
| experience Toronto first-hand in one of his | | | | Our next stop was the University of Toronto |
| organized bicycle tours. | | | | Campus, headquarters of Canada's largest |
| Punctually at 10 am I was waiting at the | | | | university (with close to 60,000 students) and one |
| southwest corner of the intersection of Yonge | | | | of its oldest, chartered in 1827. U of T is |
| Street and Queens Quay. Another lady dressed in | | | | consistently ranked as one of the top 30 |
| bicycle attire came up to me and asked me if I | | | | university in global rankings. We admired historic |
| was about to participate in the bicycle tour. I | | | | buildings such as the Soldier's Tower completed in |
| confirmed and she introduced herself as Susan | | | | 1924 to commemorate members of the U of T |
| from Florida who was up here in Toronto to join | | | | community who fell during the war; University |
| her husband who was here to attend a | | | | College with its mix of architectural styles - a |
| conference. Just minutes later our tour guide | | | | National Historic Site which was built between |
| Jordan arrived and welcomed us. | | | | 1856 and 1859; Knox College built in Collegiate |
| Ever nosy I asked him to tell me a bit about his | | | | Gothic style and opened in 1915; as well as |
| background and he indicated that he is a graduate | | | | Convocation Hall, a round building modeled after |
| of the University of Toronto in International | | | | the Sorbonne theatre in Paris and opened in 1907. |
| Relations and Environmental Studies. Three years | | | | Jordan's tour then took us west on College Street |
| ago he started Sights on Bikes together with two | | | | to the Kensington Market area, one of Toronto's |
| friends, initially as an idea for a cool summer job | | | | most colourful and diverse neighbourhoods. |
| during university. Since then Jordan has taught | | | | Traditionally home to successive waves of |
| skiing in Jackson Hole and also worked during the | | | | immigrants, the Kensington Market area is a |
| winter at a lobby firm in Washington, D.C. In the | | | | hustling and bustling area full of edgy clothing |
| summer he returned to Toronto to run his | | | | retailers, bakeries, ethnic grocery shops, funky |
| company and he is on the road with visitors | | | | stores and restaurants. |
| virtually every day. | | | | Jordan took us to the "Urban Herbivore", a |
| Jordan took us to a locked storage container on | | | | restaurant that serves fabulous soups and other |
| the parking lot and retrieved three bicycles as well | | | | vegetarian delights. I enjoyed a scrumptious |
| as helmets for us. Sights on Bikes' bicycles are | | | | sweet potato soup and a sweet potato muffin. |
| extremely comfortable touring bikes with six | | | | After our short break Jordan led us onto Spadina |
| gears that make sight-seeing an easy and painless | | | | Avenue, the centre of Toronto's largest and |
| experience. We started cycling up Yonge Street | | | | oldest Chinatown (Toronto has three different |
| and then turned east on the Esplanade, one of | | | | Chinatowns within its city limits). |
| Toronto's premier restaurant streets that at one | | | | Both today's Chinatown and Kensington Market |
| point actually used to be at the waterfront of | | | | area were originally settled by Jewish immigrants |
| Toronto before the harbour area to the south | | | | from Eastern Europe. Later waves of immigration |
| was filled in. | | | | and the northward migration of Jewish residents |
| Our next stop was the St. Lawrence Market, one | | | | have made Kensington a very diverse and |
| of two major markets in Toronto. This market | | | | ethnically mixed neighbourhood that today |
| was actually Toronto's first permanent city hall | | | | features many Latin American and various Asian |
| and jail house between 1845 and 1899. A police | | | | stores and residents. Toronto's Chinese area was |
| station also used to be located on the first floor. | | | | originally located near Queen and Bay Streets, but |
| In the late 1800s the market building was altered | | | | with the construction of New City Hall and Nathan |
| radically after the construction of Toronto's City | | | | Phillips Square the Chinese community moved |
| Hall at Queen and Bay Streets. The central portion | | | | westwards to Spadina. Lower Spadina is also the |
| of the original market building (the South Building) | | | | heart of Toronto's Fashion District, which even |
| has survived and the original council chamber of | | | | today features many garment factories. |
| the former city hall today houses the Market | | | | After the hustle and bustle on busy Spadina |
| Gallery. Susan and I had a quick peek into the | | | | Avenue, Jordan led us east towards Peter Street |
| market hall and admired the wide assortment of | | | | which turns into Blue Jays Way and took us right |
| food retailers. | | | | past the Rogers Centre, the former Skydome, |
| The St. Lawrence Market is one of Toronto's | | | | Toronto's multipurpose stadium with the |
| beloved historic buildings, and the lively | | | | retractable roof. Right at the intersection of Blue |
| atmosphere of the market and the extensive | | | | Jays Way and Navy Wharf Court there is an |
| culinary assortment is a huge draw for locals and | | | | imposing monument, the Memorial to |
| tourists alike. The market features everything | | | | commemorate the Chinese Railway Workers in |
| from baked goods, cheese and dairy products, to | | | | Canada. Jordan stopped to explain the history |
| flowers, fruits, vegetables, meats, poultry and | | | | behind this impressive monument. A wooden |
| seafood to organic products and gourmet teas | | | | railroad trestle with two precariously perched |
| and coffees. Several sit-down restaurants and | | | | railroad workers illustrates the hard and dangerous |
| snack-bars will soothe hungry appetites. The North | | | | work of Chinese workers who built the Canadian |
| Market across the street features a farmer's | | | | Pacific Railroad through the Rocky Mountains in |
| market on Saturdays and an antique market on | | | | the 19th century. More than 4000 workers were |
| other days. | | | | killed in construction-related accidents between |
| The area at the foot of Jarvis and Front Street | | | | 1880 and 1885. |
| also used to be the terminus of the Underground | | | | We then cycled past the Rogers Centre on |
| Railway, a network of secret routes and safe | | | | Bremner Boulevard to Roundhouse Park, the |
| houses that allowed African slaves to escape | | | | green space right next to the CN Tower that |
| from the southern United States to free states | | | | features one of the most impressive views of |
| and Canada. It is estimated that a least 30,000 | | | | downtown Toronto's skyscrapers. The former |
| slaves escaped to Canada, and many of these | | | | John Street Roundhouse was originally built by the |
| slaves arrived on boats in Toronto at the foot of | | | | Canadian Pacific Railway in 1929 to service and |
| Jarvis Street. | | | | repair locomotives; today it features the popular |
| Just one block north of the St. Lawrence Market | | | | Steam Whistle Brewery. |
| Jordan made another stop and briefed us on | | | | Jordan then took us underneath the elevated |
| another historic jewel of Toronto: St. Lawrence | | | | Gardiner Expressway to Harbourfront, a popular |
| Hall, located at the intersection of King and Jarvis | | | | entertainment district right on Lake Ontario. |
| Streets, was constructed from 1849 to 1850. | | | | Harbourfront Centre features a variety of |
| Originally this structure contained a hall for public | | | | shopping and dining facilities; there are art galleries, |
| meetings on the north side, and a covered | | | | visual arts and exhibition spaces, theatres, concert |
| market on the south. During its heyday it was | | | | facilities and an International Marketplace that |
| used for important social and cultural events as | | | | entices with food and merchandise from all over |
| well as lectures. After many years of disrepair it | | | | the world. The nearby Toronto Music Garden is a |
| was finally restored to its former glory in 1967 | | | | delightful green space designed by internationally |
| and has again become a location for special | | | | renowned cellist Yo Yo Ma and landscape designer |
| events in the city. | | | | Julie Moir Messervy. In the winter Canada's largest |
| Right across the street Jordan took us to our | | | | artificially cooled outdoor ice rink entertains the |
| next destination: St. James Cathedral, the oldest | | | | crowds. |
| congregation in Toronto. First established in 1797, | | | | Jordan had already taken us on a very |
| the current cathedral was completed in 1844 and | | | | action-packed tour through the city, but the real |
| with a height of 305 feet it features the second | | | | gem was still waiting for us: a visit to the Toronto |
| tallest church spire in Canada (after St. Joseph's | | | | Islands. The price of the ferry ride at the foot of |
| Oratory in Montreal). One of the most colourful | | | | Bay Street was already included in the tour price. |
| personalities connected to this Gothic Revival | | | | Although I have been over on the islands |
| church was the Right Reverend Dr. John Strachan, | | | | numerous times, the ferry ride with its beautiful |
| the first Anglican Bishop of Toronto. He was a | | | | panoramic vistas of Toronto's skyline and the |
| member of Canada's "Family Compact", the | | | | arrival on the serene islands are always a real |
| conservative elite that first ruled the British colony | | | | treat. For Susan, the tour participant from Florida, |
| of Upper Canada. He was known for his fierce | | | | the experience must have been even more |
| loyalty to the British monarchy, as well as his | | | | special. All of a sudden Toronto's concrete roads |
| hatred for slavery and republicanism. The | | | | and skyscrapers receded and we landed in the |
| cathedral itself has received heritage designations | | | | quiet, peaceful and car-free paradise of the islands |
| from the Ontario Ministry of Culture, from | | | | that offer the perfect view of this hyper-active |
| Heritage Toronto as well as from the | | | | bustling metropolis. Definitely worth the price of |
| Government of Canada. | | | | admission... |
| We followed Jordan up Church Street, and then | | | | Having landed at Hanlan's point, Jordan, our expert |
| turned west on Richmond Street to turn north on | | | | tour guide from Sights on Bikes, first took us to a |
| Bay Street where we made our next stop at | | | | statue of Ned Hanlan (1855 to 1908), a fisherman, |
| Toronto's Old City Hall. It was built between 1889 | | | | hotelkeeper and later championship rower, five |
| and 1899 and designed by famous architect E.J. | | | | time consecutive world champion between 1880 |
| Lennox who also designed Toronto's Casa Loma | | | | and 1884 in single-scull rowing, who only lost six of |
| and the King Edward Hotel. Old City Hall is a | | | | his 300 races during his rowing career. Just steps |
| masterpiece of Richardson Romanesque Revival | | | | away Jordan pointed out to us the location of |
| style with rich carvings adorning the façade. | | | | Babe Ruth's first professional home run in 1914. |
| The original budget of $600,000 had grown to | | | | Although the stadium was demolished in 1937, a |
| more than $2.5 million which caused a major | | | | plaque still remembers this historic event. |
| uproar on Toronto's city council. The clock tower | | | | We cycled past the nearby "clothing optional" |
| is more than 300 feet (over 100 m) high and | | | | beaches to stop at the Gibraltar Point Light House, |
| features a gigantic bell known as Big Ben. At the | | | | a historic building dating back to 1808 that is the |
| time of its completion Old City Hall was the | | | | setting for a well-known ghost story. Jordan |
| largest building in Toronto as well as the largest | | | | explained that one of the lightkeepers who |
| civic building in all of North America. Old City Hall | | | | disappeared and whose murdered body was later |
| was almost demolished in the 1960s but a group | | | | found is still said to haunt this area. Further east |
| of concerned citizens fought to save it, and today | | | | we stopped at the reflecting pools and the pier |
| it is a National Historic Site. | | | | that projects southwards from the islands. A |
| Jordan not only filled us in on the various sights | | | | snack bar provides welcome refreshments and a |
| along the way, he also gave us a civics lesson and | | | | bicycle rental booth is located here which also |
| explained the Canadian flag, the Canadian | | | | features two-seater quadricycles. |
| parliamentary system, the Canadian healthcare | | | | At some point the Toronto Islands were densely |
| system as well as Canada's history and the origins | | | | populated and featured a variety of grand hotels, |
| of Quebec and Ontario. This type of knowledge is | | | | retail stores, residential areas, various amusement |
| particularly important to out-of-towners who are | | | | parks and restaurants. Today only the Centreville |
| trying to understand this city and my co-traveller | | | | Amusement Park remains as well as 62 homes |
| from Florida certainly appreciated this information. | | | | which are mostly located in the eastern section of |
| Across the street we stopped at the next site: | | | | the islands in Ward's Island and Algonquin Island. |
| Toronto's New City Hall, one of Toronto's most | | | | Resident lease them in 99 year lease agreements, |
| distinctive landmarks. The building was opened in | | | | and strict rules apply to the buying and selling of |
| 1965 and was designed to replace Old City Hall. | | | | island homes. Many of the houses are still quaint |
| The architect for this modernist design was | | | | cottages although some have been expanded |
| chosen in an international competition in 1958 and | | | | while others display some signs of neglect. We |
| the winning entry among more than 500 designs | | | | stopped at a special spot from where we had a |
| was by Finnish architect Viljo Revell. New City Hall | | | | perfect view of downtown Toronto's skyline. |
| is composed of two rounded towers on a | | | | Our deluxe city tour had almost come to an end. |
| rectangular base that features a saucer-like council | | | | Jordan took us past the Centreville Amusement |
| chamber. In front of New City Hall is Nathan | | | | Park with its Swan Pond back to the Centre |
| Phillips Square, an expansive public space that is | | | | Island ferry and 20 minutes later we reached the |
| often used for festivals and special events and | | | | mainland. Our biking adventure ended in front of |
| features a reflecting pond in the summer that is | | | | the Captain John floating seafood restaurant |
| turned into a popular skating rink in the winter. | | | | where we said goodbye to Jordan and thanked |
| Then Jordan took us to our next stop: Osgoode | | | | him for guiding us so expertly through some of |
| Hall, a landmark building just west of New City Hall | | | | Toronto's most interesting areas. Although I know |
| that houses the Ontario Court of Appeal, the | | | | the city quite well, I found this tour really |
| Superior Court of Justice as well as the | | | | worthwhile since I learned so many new things |
| headquarters of the Law Society of Upper | | | | about my chosen home town. |
| Canada. The original building was constructed | | | | |